A step back in time - Ohrid last September

Yesterday I went back in time. You know how it is. You see or read something, smell something, that wakens your memory. I saw a Lonely Planet tweet highlighting the top 10 best value destinations for 2021. On that list was Ohrid in Macedonia. Most people I know have never heard of it, but I have the very good fortune of having some excellent Macedonian friends who insisted that Ohrid had to be on my itinerary when I visited them last year. 

One of the delights of Macedonia is that is a bit off the beaten track. This means that the international travel “bubble” that can make it seem as though you have never left home, doesn't exist there. Major towns seem to have the ubiquitous MacDonalds – but the international coffee chains are conspicuous by their absence, and not many of the high street fashion stores are represented. In their place, you’ll find a range of coffee shops that vary from really good to absolutely terrible. But it's this variety that makes international travel so interesting. For me travel is not about staying in my comfort zone by drinking the same coffee I drink at home, eating the same food I eat at home. It's about experiencing something new. Not just the scenery, but the food, the coffee, and most importantly the people.

Ohrid is truly worth the effort it takes to get there. The birthplace of the Cyrillic alphabet, it is a lakeside town with the air of a resort created by its plethora of waterside and roadside cafes and restaurants. And, of course, the lake.

Lake Ohrid is purportedly Europe's oldest lake – around 300 million years old. It's about 30 kilometres long, and in parts it's 300 metres deep. About two-thirds of it belongs to Macedonia; the other third is Albanian. It’s the picture of tranquillity in summer, although I have been told it can appear quite wild in winter. Hire a small boat for about 30 minutes one morning and sail past the old town. Relax and enjoy the magnificent views from the water. You’ll get a unique perspective of Ohrid’s churches and the impressive fort. If you're lucky your boatman will even make you a cup of coffee. Admire the tiny pebbled beaches, covered with sun lounges, and the architecture of the old town.

Apart from the boat trip, the best way to see Ohrid is to walk. Get lost. Turn up a road and see where it takes you. Stroll along for a couple of hours and you’re sure to stumble across Ohrid's main tourist attractions.

It seems that just about everywhere you turn you’ll find a church – there are dozens in Ohrid and the surrounding area. If you try to see them all you’ll probably want to call it quits before you get too far down the list. Make sure you see the 11th century frescoes in Sveta Sofija, Ohrid's cathedral. The colours and images in much of the church were preserved by one of those happy accidents that occur throughout history. In this case, the church, which was modelled after Constantinople's St Sophia, became a mosque when Macedonia came under Ottoman rule. Its beautiful frescoes were covered with plaster; an action which happily brought about their preservation.

Don't miss the hilltop splendour of Sveti Kliment i Pantelejmon. This church is fairly new – it was built in 2002. There had been a church on the site since at least the 4th century and when they decided to build this church anew, they rebuilt according to its original Byzantine architecture. Take a look at the 4th century church foundations and partially uncovered mosaics in the grounds. The ongoing excavations will probably continue for years. St Kliment of Ohrid was the first Slavic bishop and founder of the Macedonian Orthodox Church. He also is responsible for creating the Cyrillic alphabet.

The third not-to-be-missed church is a tiny church on a small point jutting out into the water. The position is sublime and combined with its architecture, it’s definitely worth a visit. The 13th century Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo sits in a small garden on a cliff overlooking the sea. At night it is floodlight, but I personally preferred the natural light of the early morning on my visit. Make sure you take some time to sit in the gardens, relax and enjoy the view. Though your idyll is sure to be interrupted by the click of camera shutters.

From Sveti Jovan church, walk along the lake’s edge, past a tiny village and Kaneo beach. Locals refer to it as a fishing village but to me it appeared to be a string of cafes. I guess some people go fishing too. Continue on the path and you end up in the old town with its stunning examples of traditional architecture. There’s a short boardwalk over the water – in the early morning there were people fishing here. Plaques for each sign of the zodiac are place along the boardwalk and the idea is that you throw a coin, touch the "sing" (sic) corresponding to your birth sign and make a wish. I say just walk along and enjoy the view.

Back in the town take the time to look at Ohrid Pearls. The ‘pearls’ are made from fish scales and the techniques are handed down through families. Watch out for fakes – I’ve been told there are many. Insist on pearls that come with a "certificate".  Also check out the delicate silver filigree work.

When you’re ready for more walking visit Car Samoil's fort. Go up through the old town, past Sveti Sofija and the ancient theatre (late Hellenic period) and follow the signs. It's a steep hill but well worth the climb. Go during the day and there’ll be somewhere along the way where you can buy a cold drink. Stroll along the wooded path and at times you’ll almost forget that you people are living and going about their daily business close by.

Make sure you spend some time sitting in cafes watching the people and drinking coffee. In Macedonia drinking coffee almost seems to be a national pastime. Watch out though. At one cafe when I ordered a cappuccino it came with whipped cream on top! After that I found it safer to stick to espresso if I wanted to enjoy my coffee the way I like it.

The locals in Ohrid are very friendly. They love to tell you about their town and hear about where you’re from. Ohrid was celebrating when I was there and it was a local who explained to me what was going on. The Macedonian team had just beaten the Greek team in a basketball game – fireworks and partying went on until the early hours. 

In summer months you can catch Ohrid Summer - a programme of concerts that attracts local and international visitors, which uses both Sveta Sofija and the classical amphitheatre as venues.

I didn't get time on my trip for everything that Lake Ohrid has to offer. There are other towns, monasteries and museums I have yet to visit and I'm looking forward to hiking through the nearby Galicica National Park which separates Lake Ohrid from the neighbouring Lake Prespa sometime soon. One local told me that "Everyone who visits Ohrid once, comes back". I don't think he was exaggerating.